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Rucksack - May 1998

Volume 37 Number 4

Gus Bush Editor



The Unit was contacted by the Pierce county Department of Emergency Management at 8:55 PM on the 21st of March. They requested a high angle rescue team to back up the Enumclaw Fire Department's rescue team. A Ford Bronco with 4 people in it had run off Forest Road 70 at the Pyramid Creek Sno Park, east of Greenwater Wa.. Nine members responded: Mike Mixon, Jeff Sharp, Fran McFarland, Chris Berryman, Ed Hrivnak, Rob Lutz, Stan and Angela Kartes, Dave Treber and Steve Stowall. An hour later at 9:56PM the Unit was told to turn around, that the fire department team was at the scene and no further help was needed. Mike Mixon continued on up to the scene; what follows is an email message I received from him.

Gus,

I went on up to FS 70 on Saturday nite. There, in full bunker gear, was every fire-fighter east of Bonney Lake! They had one person loaded in an ambulance and were loading the others when I got there. I talked briefly with one of the guys there, who said that one or two of them had serious injuries. They were prepping the LZ at Greenwater FD when I went by.

The guy said a full size Bronco went over the bank, down 150' rolling several times and ended up n a stream. I thought the full bunker gear was GREAT! It wasn't snowing, but was still cold.





In Western Washington the unofficial start of the climbing season is the Memorial Day weekend. Mountaineering is a physically demanding sport and a lot of our members are going to be out climbing this summer. Here are a couple of tips to help you plan your climb.

Before you leave home you should have a mental picture of your planned climb. Here are some questions that you might want to consider:

  1. WHAT IS YOUR GOAL ?

    1. Did you leave some detailed information about your plan with a responsible individual?

    2. What is the glacier and high altitude experience level of the group? You may be exposed to several hazards such as altitude, weather, physical and sometimes psychological distress. The effects of these hazards may cause physical and/or behavioral problems. To prevent such occurrences, climbers should be fully aware of these hazards and their possible effects, know and observe the necessary precautions, and act accordingly.

    3. What are the technical, objective and subjective difficulties of the climb?

    4. What is the length of time you will spend on the mountain? How about for the hike in, the climb itself, the descent and the hike out?

  2. WHAT ARE THE EXPECTED CONDITIONS DURING THE CLIMB?

    1. What are the current and long-range weather and avalanche forecasts? Call the NW Avalanche Center at (206) 526-6677.

    2. What potential medical conditions might you encounter? Let's face it, climbing at altitude can be hazardous to your health. The stress on your body trying to work with less than its usual oxygen supply is considerable.

    MOST ALTITUDE RELATED MEDICAL PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY GOING TOO HIGH TOO FAST.

  3. WHAT EQUIPMENT DO YOU NEED?

    1. Food.

    2. Technical climbing gear.

    3. Group camping and commissary gear.

    4. Personal equipment.

  4. WHAT IS YOUR INTENDED ROUTE?

    1. What information is available from:

        (1) Maps

        (2) Guide Books

        (3) Information from other climbers.

        (4) Personal equipment.

  5. IS THIS INFORMATION RELIABLE??

    Map your route from the parking lot up the mountain and back to the parking lot. Make a mental picture of your entire climb.

    1. Locate all potential objective hazards.

    2. What is the terrain like--can you navigate from the terrain?

    3. What is your expected time on the mountain? Allow about one hour for every 500 to 750 feet elevation gain. If you belay any section figure twice as long. The idea is to pick out several identifiable points along your climb and gauge your progress. If you're ahead of schedule, good; if you're behind you may want to consider an alternate plan.

    4. Where will you place your camps?

  6. WHAT IS YOUR CONTINGENCY PLAN(S)?




While we all know why we involve ourselves in this most unique of avocations, and how such activities are to be carried out it nevertheless does not hurt to spell out a simple Search and Rescue code of Ethics as a gentle reminder:





On nearly all of our missions there will be representatives of the responsible authority present who will take care of media relations. In the rare event where we operate independently, here are some suggestions for handling such contacts.

During some of our operations there may be significant media interest. Usually the media are aware of the event, but if not, when to notify the media is normally decided by the operation spokesperson. It is desirable to initiate contact with the media rather than having the story "discovered". Once sheriff or local agencies are informed of the emergency, media contact should not be delayed.

From a public relations point of view, the objective is to have a one-day story and avoid a series of headlines dragged on over several days. To this end, we should provide the media with as much detail as possible and ideally postpone contact until the operation is completed and next-of-kin have been notified. The press will want to know.

Do not deny that an event did in fact happen. Make accurate and full disclosure of the facts and cooperate with the media. Also, rather than having a "canned" story, have a written list of key points for reference and tell the story in your own words. Refrain from speculation. Assure equal access to all reporters. Correct erroneous reporting as soon as possible. Call it to the attention of the reporter -- rather than his /her superior -- and provide correct information. Ensure the corrected information is published.





Call to order 19:35.

BOARD MEMBERS IN ATTENDANCE:

OTHERS IN ATTENDANCE:

The February minutes were accepted as read.

TREASURER'S REPORT: Larry Crum No Report.

OPERATIONS REPORT: Rob Lutz

TRAINING: Jim Andrues

EQUIPMENT:Pat Lillie

COMMUNICATIONS: Stan Kartes

SAFETY AND EDUCATION: Chris Berryman

MEMBERSHIP: Chris Berryman

FINANCE: Bill Weber

AIR OPERATIONS: Jeff Sharp

OLD BUSINESS:

NEW BUSINESS:

Adjourn 21:00




What follows is a email response I received from George Sainsbury:

George was a contemporary of George Cashman and was present as a member of the Mountain Rescue team that responded to the accident that I mentioned in my memorial to George Cashman.

He updated some of the facts that I got wrong. What follows is the text of his email message to me:

WMRA wasn't formed until after Hal Foss came on the staff at the State Division of Emergency Services - about 1966 or 1967 I believe. Hal thought it would make his job easier. There had been strong resistance

among most Washington units to forming a "region" because there was fear that units would stop sending delegates to Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) meetings - would just let the region chair carry the vote. This fear proved to be well founded.

George was injured on the weekend that MRA was formed at Hood. We got the word late in the day and most of the delegates from Washington and some of the delegates from Oregon headed out. I'm not sure now just who they all were, but Jon Wellner can take a look in the old MRC Newsletter of that time and see if it has any report.

I was still in a walking cast following my major accident on Rainier so I wound up running a radio relay station in a ski club cabin with Dick Pooley, who had just been elected the first President of MRA. I'm pretty sure that John Simac and Lee Tegner were there, and probably Ev Lasher, though he may not have moved to Tacoma yet at that time. Dorrell Looff and Ome Daiber and Paul Williams were certainly there. Probably Ken Carpenter from Everett. I think the Quoidback brothers, Rob and Val, from Longview were a sort of an advance team, even though by that time the Longview Mountain Rescue Unit had fallen apart.

George Sainsbury





There will be two kit parties this summer one on the first Wednesday of June and one on the first Wednesday of August. There will be no kit parties in May or July. Any Questions call Shorty Williams at 564-0581





To those of you who have read the Rucksack over the last five years, and have good memories I apologize. I have been going to school the last couple of months and haven't had time to write original articles. The articles that appear in this issue and last month's actually first appeared in the Rucksack in 1993 and 1994. Hopefully I'll have time to write before the June Issue

Gus.




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Tacoma Mountain Rescue
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