The Unit was contacted by the Pierce County Department of Emergency Management at 9:30p.m. Sunday the 14th of June. Mount Rainier National Park had requested 12 Mountain Rescue volunteers at the White River Ranger Station at 6:00 a.m.. They had received a 911 call phone call around 7:30p.m. from two climbers trapped by high winds and whiteout conditions at 13,000 feet on the Winthrop Glacier.

The two climbers, Geoffrey McGrath, 33, and Martin Bullard, 34, had climbed the Liberty Ridge route on the mountain and were descending to Camp Schurman when McGrath fell into a crevasse. Bullard arrested his partner's fall and then sat in 65mph winds for two hours and became hypothermic while McGrath climbed out of the crevasse..

Eleven members responded to the Rescue Cache at 4:00 a.m.; they were: Chris Berryman, Roger Ternes, Bill Weber, Mike Mixon, Fran McFarland, Dave Dahl, Darrell Cherry, Tony O'Brien, Juan Ridout, John Kirkman and Tom Miner. After a briefing at the Ranger Station they split into two teams. Mike Mixon, Roger Ternes, John Kirkman and Tom Miner would try to fly to the summit of the mountain on an Army CH47 Chinook helicopter along with 4 members from Olympic Mountain Rescue. A team of Rangers had already set out from Camp Schurman to climb to the stranded climbers. Another team from Seattle Mountain Rescue would climb up to Camp Schurman to assist the Rangers in carrying the climbers out if needed. A TMR team consisting of Fran McFarland, Dave Dahl, Darrel Cherry, Tony O'Brien, Juan Ridout would climb up to Glacier Basin to relieve the Seattle team if a carry-out was needed. Chris Berryman and Bill Weber stayed at the Ranger Station as operations.

A small Long 208 helicopter took Tom Miner up to determine the exact position of the climbers on the mountain. At the same time the CH47 with a team of Park Rangers tried to land on the summit. After a close call trying to land in the high winds the CH47 returned to the Ranger Creek helipad to await the ground teams arrival at the stranded climbers's position. Tom Miner returned to the area with the smaller helicopter and directed the ground team to them.

By the time the ground team had reached the stranded climbers they were both suffering from hypothermia after spending the night in a trench they had dug. Though one was able to walk, the other had to be dried off and warmed up. It was decided that since neither climber had life threatening injuries a helicopter evacuation would be too risky in the high winds. Both climbers were escorted to down to Camp Schurman. They would spend the night and walk out the next day. Four TMR team members returned to the Cache Monday evening while the rest waited till Tuesday morning to ensure the climbers would be able to walk out on their own.

For the fourth time in less than a week the Unit was contacted by the Pierce County Department of Emergency Management for a climber in trouble on Mt. Rainier. The Park had requested that ten Mountain Rescue volunteers be put on standby for a possible rescue of a climber on Liberty Ridge.

Around 4:00 p.m. Tuesday, Malcolm Talbot, 58, was descending Liberty Ridge with two companions after a failed summit attempt when he apparently caught a crampon on a rock and fell breaking his ankle. His climbing companions were able to get him from Thumb Rock at the 10,800 foot level to around 9,900 feet before they built a snow shelf and left him with sleeping bags, a stove and some water while they went for help arriving at the White River Ranger Station at 5:00 a.m. Wednesday morning.

A helicopter flew eight Park Rangers to Liberty Wall at 8,800 feet. They then climbed up to Talbot and then performed a technical lower of over 1,000 feet to the Carbon Glacier where he was flown off the mountain.

The TMR members on standby were: Tom Miner, Mike Mixon, Jim Andrues, Brian Capron, Andrew Cull, Ed Hrivnak, Stan Kartes, Maria Level, Roger Ternes, Dave Treber, Rick Wire.

The Unit was contacted by the Pierce County Department of Emergency Management at 8:30 a.m. on July 6th to assist the Mason County Sheriff in the search for a possible suicide at Lake Cushman. Eight members responded: Ken Capron, John Miner, Mike Mixon, Rob Penney, Joe Scarfo, Steve Stowell, Dave Treber and Rick Wire.

The following mission report was submitted by John Miner who was Operations Leader for this mission. Edited for journalistic reasons. Editor.

1315hrs.-checked in with the Mason County Emergency services truck. We were given a mission number of 98-1249.

We were given a basic data sheet and a search assignment. We were looking for an adult white female, Lori Zimmerman. She was said to be suicidal, not on medications and had no formal diagnosis. She had left a long rambling note, but nothing specific with which to aid the search effort. All of her belongings were still at her house, which was nearby. There had been several unverified sightings in the area. There were a number of ESAR teams and King County had their helicopter up.

Jefferson County Deputy Brooks provided the briefing for me and the assignment. We were to search the area below the lower dam at Kokanee Lake, sometimes referred to as Lower Lake Cushman.

1405 hrs. We arrived at the dam with the aid of Tacoma Public Utilities.

1419 hrs. Two teams were deployed into the field. A three-person team was sent down the steep stairway to the bottom of the 200' dam to check the area there and at the adjacent spillway. This team consisted of Joe Scarfo, Ken Capron, and Rob Penny. The second team was sent to scout the area below the dam accessed by a steep trail. This was Mike Mixon, Dave Treber, and Steve Perry. Rick Wire stayed at the truck with me for this short period of time.

1452hrs.the team searching the base of the dam completed their mission.

1500hrs. both teams were back at the truck.

1512hrs. one team of seven was sent back into the field with very light gear to search the area below the dam. Mike Mixon was the team leader. Two ropes and rappeling gear were used. It took a full 150' rappel to access the river bank over steep and slippery rocks. The stream, while low in water volume, was heavily covered with down timber.

1529hrs. the team rigged the rappel

1543hrs. Rick Wire was over the edge, checking the route.

1604hrs. three team members were now at the river and searching both sides of the stream.

1640hrs. our team searched a quarter mile downstream with a very low probability of detection due to the heavy timber down along and over the stream. Search base directed us to return.

1730hrs. our team made it out of the gorge and was back on the trail.

1736hrs. the team was back at the truck.

1750hrs. all TMRU personnel were back at search base. We debriefed with Deputy Brooks. They had no more specific details with which to justify carrying on the operation. They thanked us for our assistance and we were told to secure from the mission. The team worked well together. It was relatively straightforward, but nonetheless involved a search over difficult and hazardous ground. The selection of very light packs and rappeling lines worked perfectly for this particular operation. All equipment worked well. We found a dead radio battery while doing a "comm" check prior to entering the field.

BOARD MEMBERS PRESENT:

Jim Andrues, Bill Weber, Alan Givotosky, Jeff Sharp, Mike Mixon, Ed Hrivnak, Gus Bush, Fran McFarland, Stan Kartes

OTHERS IN ATTENDANCE:

Juan Ridout, Lee Tegner, Dave Treber, Russ Brinton, Roger Ternes, Maria Level

GUESTS:

Jeff Hannah, Tracey Barnett, Rita Crompton

The May minutes were amended to include the Air Operations report and add Alan Givotosky to the board members attending list.

TREASURER'S REPORT: Larry Crum

• Larry was not present but he sent in a thorough statement. The statement was accepted as presented.

OPERATIONS: Gus Bush

4 missions last week:
• 6/10 During the membership meeting a callout came for a missing kayaker on the Carbon River.
• 6/11 An RMI guided climbing team was caught in an avalanche near the nose of Disappointment Clever on Mt. Rainier.
• 6/14 2 climbers became hypothermic at 13000' on the Winthrop Glacier.
• 6/17 Standby for a climber with a broken ankle on Liberty Ridge. The victim was heli-lifted out and our team was taken off standby.

TRAINING REPORT: Jim Andrues

• Heli training in June was attended by 25 at the Wednesday class, 19 on Saturday, and 20 on Sunday. Cards will be handed out at the July general membership meeting.
• Ed stated that it was great to have these trainings even without our own helicopter. Much thanks to Jeff Sharp, Rob Lutz and Ed for putting together the training.
• Next training: July 11^th, ropes and systems.

EQUIPMENT REPORT: Ken Capron

• Not in attendance. PLEASE check your gear for the rechargeable battery packs. We may start using a sign in/out system for these again.
• A new LZ kit needs to be put together - 1 is still missing. 1 tan sling is missing out of rigging pack #1.

COMMUNICATIONS REPORT: Stan Kartes

• A motion to purchase 2 new radios and 4 spare battery packs, speaker mikes, and additional harnesses was passed.
• Andrew Cull and Phil Pletcher are now on the group page.

SAFETY & EDUCATION: Chris Berryman

• Not present. Chris has been looking for someone to take over this position. Phil Pletcher will now take over as S and E chair.

MEMBERSHIP REPORT: Chris Berryman

• Not present. Marcus Donaldson was voted in at Field Support. Cheryl Wells was voted in at Field Support.

FINANCE REPORT: Bill Weber

• The second order was placed for Survival Kit cans from our new supplier.

AIR OPERATIONS REPORT: Jeff Sharp

• Rainier 1 was transported to Clover Park Tech. School last Wednesday. The aircraft is still under impound. The engine test is on the 12^th and Rob Lutz will be present at the test.
• Currently there are continuing discussions with the Sheriffs dept. and DEM about supporting the program.

OLD BUSINESS:

• New order of T-shirts and sweatshirts are in. Tee's are $10 and sweatshirts are $20.
• The printed flight suits will be given back at the general meeting.
• Ed discussed the role of OL's and TL's in missions. He emphasized that we follow the instructions of the "management" of the missions. This is particularly important in the National Parks.
• Ed also mentioned that its ok to talk with the press about our Unit. The hotline will be maintained as usual - giving important mission information to our members. It was emphasized that it needs to be updated during missions.
• Ed also talked about the importance of staying focused during missions and not taking additional risks. Be careful!
• It was stated that during an operation members MUST return to base and sign out using the passport system BEFORE going out for personal reasons (climb, day hike etc.).
• MRA conference report: Thank you to Ken Capron and Pepsi for the goodies!!!
• Ed stated that he was extremely proud of the Unit and that we have a very good reputation nationwide!
• Mike Mixon reported that a new Pres. and VP were elected. Next year's conference is in Tucson.
• Alan talked about the point that an OL should stay at base during a mission if possible, particularly if the mission is outside of Pierce County.

NEW BUSINESS:

• Jeff Sharp reported that there is going to be a geological study done on Mt. Rainier and that they are looking for climbers to haul gear on the Emmons Glacier route. Dates are July 19 for 3 weeks. See Jeff if you are interested.
• Stan made a motion (and it was passed) to buy a new 100 watt truck radio.
• A discussion on equipment availability included how to inform the Unit if equipment is being used and will not be available for a mission. If an item needs to be used, it must be checked out with the Equip.Chairman. If the item is important to the success of missions then maybe a group page will be sent to OL's to inform them.
• Jeff reported that he is looking for someone to take over "stapling paper" for the Survival kits. See Jeff if you would like to do this.

GOOD OF THE ORDER:

• Newly engaged, Ed Hrivnak will be moving to Mississippi on Sept. 24^th. He will be back for the banquet. Unit picnic is August 19^th at Ed's house.

Adjourn 21:20

I welcome everyone to my house for the Unit picnic this year on Wednesday, August 19. The picnic (COOKING) will start at 6:00 p.m. But the house, dock, and a boat will be available from 2:00 p.m. till whenever. So bring your suit, fishing pole, ski, boat, wakeboard, or whatever you want. There is plenty of room on the dock. The unit will provide hamburgers, hotdogs, and drinks. It's a potluck, so please bring a side-dish. As always, kids are invited. This is also a good opportunity to compare homebrews. If you homebrew, bring a couple so we can have a taste test after dinner.

This will also be my last official function with Mountain Rescue before I leave for Biloxi, Mississippi. If I owe you money or beer, this may be your last chance to get it out of me. Hope to see you all on the 19th.

Directions, from Highway 512. Take Pacific Ave HWY 7, south. Drive past Spire Rock and Spanaway Park. Make a right hand turn on 174th St. Drive 1 mile to 17303, Coffee Creek Condos. Make a right into the condos. Turn right again in the complex, drive past the swimming pool and park by the dockhouse on the water of Spanaway Lake. Eric and I live in condo 17 on the left side of the complex. The gate should be open. If it is not, call us from the gate interphone and we will buzz you in.

Any questions? Call me at 253-535-3050.

Purpose: To give Unit members specific instruction on rigging rope systems commonly used in rescue work.

When: 7:00 to 9:30 P.M. August 20, 1998

Where: Rescue Cache

What to bring: Bring a note pad and pencil for notes and to diagram systems.

Instructor: Chris Berryman

Attendance: RSVP 581-6614

Note: No previous knowledge of systems required.

Most outdoor supply stores carry tubular webbing, but lately real tubular webbing is becoming harder to find. There are one or two producers of webbing in the U.S. All the other stuff comes from outside. The looms that make tubular are now very old and very expensive to repair. The newer looms make a tape that is heated and formed into a tube with a single stitch on one side. The Mil Spec only considers breaking strength of 4,000 pounds. When I talked with the producers of the webbing they recommended the following inspection when buying webbing.

1. Lay several feet of webbing out on the floor or table. It should lay flat and straight. Poor quality webbing does not have the quality control of the stitching on the side and it lays in a curve and will not lay flat.

2. Snags are more common in this type of webbing. REI was not happy that I had them pull about 200 feet off a 300-foot spool to try and find a twenty foot section without a pull or snag. After some calling they found out that a new thread is started about every 16 to 17 feet of webbing. This is a function of the loom and not the length of thread available.

3. The thread that joins the tube should be almost invisible. The older chain stitch was very visible.

4. The webbing is heated to form and cure the material. Make sure there is no glazing. I found this to be common in black webbing.

This type of webbing will become, if it is not already, the only available. The smaller threads make it smother, but the mud sticks better.

Art

The preceding article is an e-mail that was posted by Arthur W Dodds Jr on the national Mountain Rescue Association Lister. And it seamed to me it would be of interest to our members. Editor

There will be a kit party in August so remember the kit party is 7:30 P.M. the first Wednesday of the month at 2905 Parkway Dr. W. If you need directions call Shorty Williams at 564-0581.

We need your help.

©Copyright 1998 Tacoma Mountain Rescue