Detailing models, inside and out

Detailing has several area's.  The inside (cockpit or cap), and the outside (decals, lights, markings) here is a little on each below.

Inside detailing:  The inside of a plane, car, etc. is the least seen part of a model, for this reason I tend not to spend to much time on them.  When I do though, I paint with a VERY small paintbrush.  A toothpick can work even better for applying paint for tubing or wires inside a cockpit.   There isn't really enough room to mask around these small things, so be extra carefull when painting them.  Before you paint anything detailed though, make sure to have a base color.  This is usually zinc cromate, aluminum or olive drab in airplanes; there is more variety in cars.  Spray paint works best for this.  The main thing with detail is, and with every aspect of modeling is patience.  A rushed job is a sloppy job.

     The only way to really get dials, seatbelts, etc. to look really good is by a technique called photo-etching. I know basically NOTHING about this procedure, but it is the best way, I assure you.  I may have a section on it up later when I try doing a little of it.  Don't be to picky with detail though unless your leaving your windows open.   The plastic windows on models, even when clean, tend to skew light a littly bit, making a half baked job on inside detail look nearly as good as an excellent job.  I know, I know.  I just told you being lazy and sloppy on an inside job is ok, but thats just what I think sometimes.  How well you want to detail is up to you.

Decals:  Decals can make your model look much better, or a little worse.  The biggest problem with decals is that many times they look silvery or filmy after drying.  If they are filmy, it is usually because you have the wrong type decal on the wrong type of paint.  Some decals are coated to go on glossy or satin surfaces, others are made to go on flats.  Swapping places with the two will bring out the filmy appearance.  Even if you do it right, things will probably still look silvery.  One way to reduce this problem is to cut away any excess clear decal with a razor.  Still, the problem remains.  This is what decal setting soluting is for.  It is basically supposed to melt the decal onto the model.  I still haven't obtained a set of setting solutions.  They won't ship through the mail because they are made of hazardous chemicals.  A model with recessed panel lines makes decaling much easier.  Decals on recessed panel lines fir to the shape of the model underneath, will inverted panel lines trap air because the decal won't conform to the shape of the panel lines or rivets.

Lights:  Lights on cars or planes can be made colors by applying a cote of transparent, or solid paint to the back of the glass.   Using a bright color works best.  They're lights right.  They're supposed to be bright.