Fig.1

Get yourself some good #202 O-rings (1/4" I.D.- 1/8" cross-section), preferably Viton as it holds up to diesel and temp changes very well. The ones pictured here are brown colored, but they can be black- same material. I ended up buying a lot of extras just to get a good price.

Fig.2

Begin by removing the plastic cover over the filter/separator (13mm socket). This would also probably be a good time to remove your battery cables to keep your friends from nicknaming you "Sparky" or "Torch". There are some hot solenoid connections close to where you will be wrenching.

Fig.3

Place a suitable container under the passenger side of your engine below the drain tube to catch fuel. (Note: this pan was not pushed back far enough, had a pretty good mess to clean up...a short hose attached to the end of the drain tube will help.)

Fig.4

Rotate the drain valve clockwise to drain your filter/separator. Be sure to check the position of your drain pan at this time... (This would also be a good time to disconnect any electrical plugs that may be in the way.)

Fig.5

Push the rubber connector to the drain tube off of the lower part of the drain valve. A big fat screwdriver worked good for me.

Fig.6

Remove the 4 T20 (Torx) screws with a small T20 socket and ratchet. You might want to place a towel or such below the valve so you don't have to fish a screw out of the valley like I did..

Fig.7

Note that the valve assembly is in 2 parts. It's real easy to drop the lever part into the valley. (Don't ask)

Fig.8

Carefully pop the old o rings out of the valve body, taking care not scratch up the o ring seat or valve.

Fig.9

Wipe any existing crud from valve pockets and push in the new o rings. On some models, there is a third o-ring on the top of the stem (pull the stem out from the top to replace), these ARE included in my kits just in case. Wipe any crud off the o ring surfaces on the filter/separator and reverse procedure to re-install.