The Jersey Wooly rabbit is one of the newest-recognized breeds of the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). It is a small rabbit of about 2-3 pounds with a bold square head and wooly body.

Bonnie Seeley of New Jersey first introduced the wooly at the 1984 ARBA convention at Orlando, Florida. In 1988 at the ARBA convention in Madison, Wisconsin it became a recognized breed. Bonnie originally developed the breed in order to produce a small pet rabbit with wool that was easy to care for and for the calm temperament. Today the Jersey Wooly is all that and more as one of the most popular breeds of rabbit exhibited around the world.

THE FIRST COUPLE DAYS HOME-

So you’ve decided you’re ready to commit your time, energy, and patience to the responsibility of caring for the lifetime of your bunny. With the proper care, they can be a wonderful pet and and live a long and healthy life.

Now, before you bring him home, you need to gather a few things to be prepared for his arrival.

-A cage is of utmost importance since that will be his home. Either a cage that’s 24X24 (better for the bucks because of their smaller size of about 3lbs) or 24X30 (which is better for the does because of their larger size) will work. The bigger the cage the happier and healthier the bunny will be. Bunnies need lots of room to roam so they get plenty of exercise. Make sure to include a “home” (a wooden box made of UNTREATED wood and remember that cedar fumes are toxic and will harm the bunny) so that he has a place to retreat to when either frightened or to get away from the outside elements.

-A feed dish and water bottle/dish.

-Rabbit pellets which should be of good quality with:

-16-17% protein, 19% or higher of fiber, and 2.5-3.5% fat.

-Avoid ones with corn, as it is too high in energy and will cause the coat to burn off. A good feed program is based on offering 90% of diet consisting of a good quality pellet, regular amounts of Timothy hay, and a small amount of treats. Bits of apple, banana, fresh carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, sugar peas, strawberries, parsley, dried banana chips, unsweetened Cheerios, dried bread, rice krispies, and unsalted saltine crackers all make excellent treats. BUT, be careful as rabbits have an easily disturbed digestive system. DO NOT OVERFEED YOUR PET AND NEVER GIVE HIM LETTUCE AND CABBAGE, as it is very harmful and fatal to a rabbit. I free feed my woolies and obviously make sure there is at all times fresh clean water available. There is no excuse for an empty water bottle. Which in the winter means checking and changing the water 3-4 times a day. Your rabbit will be unable to eat without a fresh ample amount of water to drink.

GROOMING-

The Jersey Wooly is an animal with an easy care coat but this does not mean a no care coat. A lot of people use two grooming tools. The soft slicker brush and a roller comb. You can get them from any pet stores. They advertise some especially made for rabbits however the ones recommended for kitten’s work just as well and are half the price. The best tools that anyone can use and that don’t cost a cent are one’s own fingers. It’s crucial to use your fingers to gently feel around the animal for little hidden mats starting to form. Then blow into their fur until you see the mat and simply and gently pull it out. Each time that you handle your wooly you should use your fingers to determine whether you need to run and grab your comb.

A baby’s coat can be the most difficult time of grooming. At 11-12 weeks of age, you’ll notice the wool cap starting to loosen, go ahead and gently pull this loose fur off the forehead until the baby looks quite silly. Roughly a week or so later the coat will start blowing. Pay very close attention to grooming him. This is a time for extreme matting. You’ll feel better knowing that this is the worst grooming you’ll ever have to hopefully deal with. Make sure to check behind the ears, under the armpits, and in the back quarters for mats being that these are favorite spots for mats to start. Don’t try to hold the coat. It’s pointless to try to keep a coat that has begun to molt, it’s better to remove the dead coat to allow for the new one to grow in more quickly and evenly.

Toenails need to be trimmed at least once a month. Regular dog/cat toenail clippers work for this job.

HAIRBALLS (WOOL BLOCK)- A DEADLY SITUATION-

Everyone's worst fear -the dreaded hairballs. (The most common rabbit killer today) Symptoms include lack of appetitive, droppings that look like a string of pearls hanging from the bottom of the wire floor, and lack of thirst. If you notice any signs start treatment immediately. Give the bunny 1/4 tsp of unsweetened pineapple juice by the eyedropper and follow that with 1/4 tsp of water by the dropper repeat this procedure twice a day until the rabbit picks up on eating and drinking or if things haven’t changed in 4-5 days consult a vet immediately.

To prevent wool blocks from occurring give your bunny a regular amount of Timothy hay each week. Also try giving him a papaya tablet once a week. Make sure that your bunny is also getting his weekly brushing because that will help get rid of the loose hair that might get swallowed. Remember-rabbits can not vomit therefore if a hairball develops and then will get wedged into the intestines causing a blockage and then death.

SANITATION (CHORES)-

Sanitation is extremely important in keeping healthy, happy bunnies. If you are able to smell the ammonia from the urine then it is way too strong for the bunnies and left in these conditions will lead to various illnesses. Check the bottom of the cages for any feces that may need to be brushed off. (A toilet brush is a useful tool for this job.) A good way to sanitize a cage is to completely dismantle it, use a weak bleach and water solution, let sit for about 5-7 minutes, rinse and then let set in the hot sun for about 15-20 minutes. You also should sanitize your bowls and water bottles on a regular basis. Do not let them get green with algae.

SUMMER/ WINTER CARE TIPS

First and foremost, make sure that they have cold, fresh water to drink at all times (add ice when needed). Second, make sure that they have good ventilation in their homes. Remember that manure does generate heat and the fumes are toxic to the little creatures. Third, make sure that you place water in plastic pop bottles and freeze them then place it in the bunny cage on the hot and humid days. Your bunny will appreciate the ice-cold bottles when trying to keep their body temperature down. Some will actually lie on them just for the extra coolness. Most importantly make sure to check on you little guy throughout the day for heat exhaustion. Look at the way he’s breathing- is it labored and open-mouthed? If so immediately bring him in the house and wrap him in cool wet towels. (NEVER SUBMERSE HIM INTO A COLD WATER BATH that will put his body into shock, which could be fatal.) Keep changing the cool towels until he starts showing signs of improvement. In severe cases, consult your veterinarian immediately. High humidity and temps just are not a bunny’s best friend.

DANGER SIGNS-

To keep your little guy healthy and happy you should be able to recognize the danger signs when something's just not right. Here are few signs to watch for: anorexia (lack of appetite), not drinking, runny stools (either mushy, jelly-like, or watery), NO stools, sneezing, runny nose/eyes, general weakness, hair loss, head tilt, lumps any where on the body, or any unusasual aggression. If you notice of these signs call your vet immediately.

OTHER MISCELLANEOUS THINGS-