Index

Dogs don't use deductive reasoning to solve a problem, left to their own devices they surmize a solution by trial and error. Training on the other hand, requires that the handler connect-the-dots to resolve any questions, more specifically communicate the objectives of the exercise through guidance and reinforcement. The dog learns what is pleasant or undesirable, what is rewarding and what to avoid.

Ethnologists and animal researchers like to use statistical conclusions and analytical theorems. They also like to add a new twist to an old theory. While there is some rhythm to their rhetoric, it sure seems like they could just stick to a few explanations to simplify their statements. These are just a small spot, on a very large screen that encompasses volumes of information.

In the book, 'Don't Shoot the Dog' by Karen Pryor, she illistrates the principles of learning by this example. A group of people designate one person as the 'pupil' and the remain members as instructors. The 'pupil' steps out of the room, while the 'instructors' decide on a task for the pupil to perform. The pupil is asked to come back in; at this point they have no idea what they are to do. In an effort to elicit some type of response, the pupil beging making various movements, jumping, running, falling down, etc. The selected task is for the pupil to turn on a light. Whenever the pupil moves in the direction of the light switch, the instructors will clap. Clapping is 'cue' that the pupil is working the correct direction. The pupil soon determines that the task is somewhere on the nearest wall. The pupil starts rubbing the wall, if they move in the direction of the light switch, the instructors clap, if they move away from the light switch, they do nothing. The pupil moves towards the light switch, clapping and then arrives at the light switch. When the pupil flips the switch and the light comes on, BIG burst of clapping to signify success.

You should be able to see, that when the dog first steps on the field to begin obedience training, they have no idea what you want them to do. If you can separate the concept of what the command 'sit' means to you and simply think of the 'word' as a 'cue' you should get a closer to bridging the principles of training. Start to think in the principles of dog training and not the english words.

• Cue, guidance, praise
• Cue, timing, reward
• Cue, correction, reinforcement

Jackpot reinforcement work very well to engrain a correct response when you are working on problem. The first time I used it was quite by accident. My dog wasn't sitting correctly. On the third try, he does it perfectly. I was ecstatic and I immediately swooped him up with lots of petting. From that day forth he was spot on. In the example above, the instructors give a loud, BURST of clapping which signifies to the pupil his action completed the task. Jackpot rewards are meant to signify importance in what the dog has accomplished.

Premack Principle would work well if you made it part of your program requirements. Obedience is not my forte but should I institute a long and consertive play session immediately at the conclusion of training, it may work to impact his work ethic, so that he knows when we finish, something good will happen.

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My original preception of basic K9 training was that we were partnered with a dog, who were genetically capable of doing the work. Our task was to go out and TRAIN the dog how to track, search, come when we called and protect us as needed. Knowing nothing, I figured that there would be a certain amount of 'force' involved. As it turned out there was, 'forced sits or downs', 'forced outs' or 'call-offs' on protection. As I have mentioned before, the use of food was taboo. We were told that dogs trained using food were unreliable and there was no room in police K9 for it.

Still, I became interested in using food as a method of reward, because of the work done with marine mammals. It seemed likely, that if their trainers could chain together splits, spins and jumps into a paying performances for the public, there had to be some basis of reliability for using food reward. One of the things which caught my attention, were their reports that said that all the behaviors that they were soliciting which actions the animals already performed naturally. It was simply a matter of reinforcing these behaviors in a sequence of events to make their show.

To which began my change of reinforcing behavior which are freely generated act by dogs. In its simplest form, dogs routinely 'sit', 'come', 'down', 'stand' or 'jump'. We know they can track, trail, search and locate objects, articles, people or other animals of interest all without our assistance. It seemed our cue was to par these implusive actions into the columns of training we call service to mankind. Obviously it could not be a complete transformation because some forms of training, such as apprehension are not naturally occuring actions.

The first time I used food in obedience training, there was a impressive difference in the final form. I saw a marked contrast from my two previous dogs. The need for remedial training was far less frequent then before and the retention rate longer. Whether you consider this method and I strongly suggest you investigate it further, you will want to know a few things.

• In the inital phase, success comes from rewarding correct behavior every time. When the response are continously correct, you should begin to use a variable schedule of reward.
• Behavior which is correct can become stronger using a variable schedule of reward over continous reward
• All training should be 'proofed' to ensure reliability
• At some point, food should be removed as the primary reward
• Food can be overused
• Food reward must motivate the dog. Dry biscuits usually does not do much for the dog.

When a dog is stressed they often can not be enticed to work even with food reward.

• Success is best when the dog is hungry
• Not that you should ever starve a dog but the effectiveness of hunger occurs during the first 48 hours.

Dog training is collection of many skills, if there is one topic more influential then any other, it would be motivation. Your dog has to have an incentive to work, it's not like he working for a paycheck. Why do we say its a skill? Because not every handler knows how to consistently motivate their dog effectively.

What Turns your Dogs Crank

I have met handlers who either did not know how or did not know what motivated their dog. I knew one dog who wouldn't even try to find its handler on a track but put the family feline in a crate at the end of track and the dog dug burrows in the ground to reach the cat and the cat hated the dog.

We know that most dogs love catching a ball and we know that dogs like treat but do you know what really ignites your dog to work? Ask ten experienced handlers to list ten motivational tools, compare the lists and most of the answers will be similar. Ask the same ten handlers what one thing, they know their dog really enjoys and more then half will be different answers. It may be a person, place, thing, toy, another pet, child, food or treat but it will mostly be different. HERE are some things they like.

FOOD

Any food should be cooked unless of course its in a commerical package, sold as a dog treat. Steak, cheese, tuna fish, liver, liver snaps, bacon, bacon treats, rawhide chew strips or pigs ear treats. Cheese or milk products may not agree with the dog digestive system or could cause gas.

TOY

Kong ball, Kong ball with rope, tug toy, jute wrap, rolled towel, hard plastic balls, squeaky toys, frisbee, fuzzy toys, stuffed toys, clutch toys, cube balls, rubber ring tug, ball with bell inside, fleece animals, Go-For Ball thrower, Ball SlingShots, Kyle Launch a Ball, balls which dispense food treats when the dog pushes it.

MATERIAL

Wooden dowels, empty two liter plastic bottles, tennis balls, soft balls, hard balls, basketballs, large rope in knots, soceer ball, rubber hose 18",

CAUTION USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

• Tennis balls can be used UP TO the point they are punctured. If any of the cover material is shallowed it can lodge in the intestine causing immediate serious medical problems or worse.
• Anything made of wood can splinter, if shallowed it can puncture the stomach or intestines causing serious medical problems or worse.
• Any item listed which starts to fall apart of wear, chewing, should be replaced to prevent any portion being shallowed by the dog which could cause serious medical problems or worse.

Many [not all] good trainers master the ART of voice influxion. The number one comment trainers make about handlers is their lack of praise reward to their dog.

VOCAL TONES

I do not know when the light finally shines for some handlers, and for some it never does. For some, there will be that day probably without a trainer around when they will find the tones that truly motivates their dog. Some times I just want to stop all training an lock the handler in a room to do nothing but practice tonal influxion.

Next to a reward, vocal tones are THE most important part of dog training. Sure timing is important, sure proper correction is important, but if you ever seen a handler who knows 'how to talk to his dog' to make him work, you'll know the difference.

I once worked for a call center where the company phrase they would push onto their employees was, the customer should hear a smile in your conversation with them. Meaning, if you were happy you probably would be smiling while you talked and your voice would reflect your mood.

Some handlers might just being lazy and others, maybe think the dog recognizes the statement GOOD BOY. Certainly every handler knows that animals can't comprehend the meaning of a statements but stop and listen sometime. They keep saying "good boy" "good dog", in such regular tones, its a wonder they dog works. I do admit, the best vocal tones sound like baby talk but IT WORKS!. If there were a description it might be something like a excited-hap-hap-happe sound.

PLAY

Most of the time its one, two or three throws of the ball and the dog gets to carry it back to the car. I'll admit I wasn't much for flipping the frisbee or the ball. Then in 1985 a trainer showed me what REAL play with your dog could do. I have since passed this rule on to new handlers. I have also attached a rope to my balls to make throwing them much easier.

When the dog has successful completed an exercise - play with them all the way back to the car The objective is to ensure that the dog gets a good 5 minutes of play time. Have someone time you and you will see what I mean because this is a long time.

EXTRA TOYS

I am not much for the spending money on dog toys, unless its hard rubber balls, those I can't make; although one of the major discount store carries the same thing at half the cost, so i go there.

It all started with the large, knotted rope. I can't remember, maybe they were selling for five bucks. It didn't make sense, I could buy the same thing, at a hardware store for a buck. So I did. Then my arm was getting sore for throwing balls and I needed a substitute. So I drilled a hole into a softball and strung some cotton rope through it. I can now launch the softball a hundred feet with just a flick of the wrist. Finally, there was the hard, plastic balls, the indestructible ones, size of a basketball. Too expensive, so I picked up secondhand basketballs for my dogs to push around. Even when they punture them and the air escapes, they still keep their round shape. The indestructible balls rub the hair off of the top of the dogs nose from pushing it around, which doesn't happen with basketballs.

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