Recognizing the signs of stress and the nervous anxiety associated with it, is as pertainent to your program as the dog's ability to do the job. If their mind is not into the work, their body wouldn't be. If you have ever seen a dog pushed to their crisis point, it is a dismal process to witness. One moment the dog is engaged in their work and the next second they totally shut down.

Stress can take many postures or mannerisms. It can be intertwined with heredity, environment or training. It could be classified as a mild form of fear, conflict or confusion, it does not always have to be a reflection on the dog's character or courage.

I really don't care what 'learned scholars' say about emotions in dogs, they exhibit expressions similar to ours and that's all I need to know. Therefore, we all know what stress is like in our lives, from the large and small variations. Stress in a dog does not have to be a BIG thing, a crisis point, fear biting or total shutdown to be a clinical example of stress. It is lots of little things. In fact, crisis points are rare, they occur but not a lot. For new handlers, this page is just a way to explain why your dog sometimes response the way they do.


SIGNS OF STRESS

Under the section of Body English - Body Language we explained some contrasting signs of stress under Canine Signals and Postures. Here are just a few more that were not covered.

  • Circling or pacing in kennel
  • Diaherra (could also be an illness or allergy, check medical)
  • Dilated pupils are a certain sign of stress
  • Excessive shedding (could also be related to allergies)
  • Excessive scratching (could also be an allergy)
  • Excessive panting (not related to heat or exercise, tongue is cupped at the tip as opposed to relaxed.)
  • Freezing in motion
  • Hiding behind the handler
  • Hiding under furniture
  • Hiding under vehicles
  • Hyperactivity above normal levels
  • Licking paws (if not related to an allergy)
  • Loss of appetite
  • Nipping at hands  
  • Shaking or trembling
  • Skin disorders (could be related to allergies)
  • Trembling (assuming they are not cold or wet)
  • Yawning (when not related to sleep)
  • Vomiting (could also be an illness, check medical)

FIVE TYPES of STRESS

NERVOUSNESS

  • Licking may be similar to the cotton-mouth in people.
  • Ignoring commands. Its not the dog is ignoring you, he's stressed and can not focus
  • Pacing back and forth much like an expected father waiting for the birth of their child
  • Whining Click here
  • Loose stools, diarrhea or vomiting.
  • Panting associated with elevated blood pressure.

FEAR

  • Hackles. Probably a premier warning sign the dog is not only stressed but may react aggressive unless the situation is not de-escalated. The first stage is the hackles raised at the dog's withers. The next stage is hackles raised at the dog's withers and top line. The final stage is raised hackles from hips to head. Just like the phrase, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up. The dog may walk stiff legged in an effort to appear tall and stronger.
  • Growling. Is refereed to as Defense Instinct or Guard Drive. It is meant to warn the threat or intruder to back off.
  • Urinating on Self. Sign of significant fear, dog is rolled on it's back, tail and tucked, if it urinates it appears to be like an involuntarily action, unlike deliberate marking. Like it scared the piss out of me.
  • Dilated pupils. Heighten stress causes the pupils to dilated, the publics will appear very dark.
  • Trembling. Not common but I've seen in smaller dogs at the extreme edge of fear. Trembling from fright
  • Tucked Tail. If the tail is tucked all the way to the underside of their belly they are REALLY stressed. I once saw a little toy breed so afraid of strangers, it would immediately tucked its tail and run off yelping.

ESCAPE

  • Hiding. Who wouldn't expect a dog to run and hide like a little scared-cat, but it happens. They pick whatever is closest, handler, vehicle.
  • Slip leash. When a dog perceives the chips are down and there is an immediate threat to them, they will do anything to leave the immediate area. If they are onlead, they will trying to tow them in the opposite direction. If that doesn't work they will try to twist out of choker and may try to bite your hand if you try to stop them.

AVOIDANCE

  • Avoidance. This is a crisis point. The dog is unable to cope with whatever is causing the conflict. It can be as simple as the umbrella test. The dog will circle the person/object and no amount of coasing will bring them closer. They will hug the wall if inside and ignore commands by the handler.

AGGRESSION

  • Most aggression, unless in the line of duty, is a conflict relating to stress. As with the fear biter, the tucked tail and/or growling is the first stages. If the threat does not diminius and there is no escape route, the dog feels cornered with no alternative but to respond aggressively.

WHEN STRESS CAN OCCUR

  • Travel and staying in unfamiliar places. The dog is out of their comfort zone. The crate can be their 'safe place' but its still not like home. They may have loose stools and their appetite may decrease.
  • Competition. A lot of different things happen at competitions. If you have to travel, thats mentioned above. There are a lots of different dogs, if your dogs likes company, they don't get to play. If they are a dominant dog, theres lots of potential aversaries. Competitions are stressful for the handler, the feelings of which the dog will pick up on.
  • Illness.
  • Injury. Here is where your familiarity in first aid can really make a difference. People who injuried can follow the paramedics commands, dogs have no idea what you are doing, they just know it hurts. This is a time when another handler would be a big help to comfort the dog.
  • New Training. People don't like change and dogs don't unless you do make it positive, make it fun.
  • New cat or dog in the household. Dogs can adapt to a new dog in the house but cats are a different story. It seems that kittens raised with puppies blend together but adult cats are not too compromising.
  • Sirens and whistle. The decibel levels do not effect every dog but some.
  • Thunderstorms and Lighting It has been mentioned that besides the noise and sudden flash of light, static electricity may play a part. Dogs who have a phobia to thunderstorms may have a dislike for loud noises.
  • Loud or Unusual Noises Can be heredity based or environmentally influence. 4th of July and New Years Eve is not enjoyed by everyone, for some dogs having hearing 3x's as strong as man must be a nightmare.
  • Unusual Odors. During our runs, I have seen my dog's hackles raise for no immediate apparent reason, only to see a dog, deer or moose farther down the road.
  • Extreme Temperatures. Early warning sign of heat stroke is frantic, stress behavior like pacing, panting, drooling
  • Diet. Difficult to measure but if everything else has been ruled out then there is supporting articles that inadequate diet can cause stress, amount other things.

BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS

Some of the actions which are classified as behavioral problems are purely natural responses to the dog

Remember from the dogs' position barking, chewing or jumping are all every natural responses. Some of what is listed here are easily corrected, others take time but others can develop into neurotic behavior. There are two ingredience which assist in a positive resolution, persistence and consistency. You may need professional help. Check more then one source but more importantly do not hope the problem will just go away.
DISCLAIMER. This is general introductary INFORMATION. The best assessment can only be made by an on-site OBSERVATION of any dog who is exhibiting behavioral problems.

As it pertains to barking or aggressive postures/actions, we are referring to behavior not connected to protection/aggression training of police service dog, schutzhund or protection dogs.

 

Aggressive behavior in a dog requires immediate corrective action. Do not hestitate to seek professional help the FIRST time you notice it. Aggressive behavior is a liability and a danger to others. When a study was conducted on societies greatest fears, the result was that we feared wild animals more then the family pet. As you can guess, the highest incidents of attack on people every year, worldwide, is by the family dog.

Most of us grew up with the concept that a dog wailing his tail was friendly. Unfortunately that is not always the case as we have seen that both offensive and defensive canine postures involving a wagging tail.

If you spend a decade or more training dogs, at some point, we will encounter a dog which will be interested in challenging your position as 'the boss'. I've owned a dog like this, worked with dogs like these and I wouldn't go looking for one if I had my choice. I did learn that complusion compliance does not always work, aggression often brings back more aggression and you have to be ready for it.

CAUSES OF AGGRESSION

  • Food. I almost got my hand bitten off once when I tried to feed two dogs from the same food dish. Bad etiquette. Dogs don't share well with food, toys or females in heat. Always separate dogs during feeding time.
  • Territorial. Lots of dogs bark when strangers approach their grounds. This is the first line of defense, similar to the phrases king of their castle. Which is not to say its harmless but locking them up every time someone comes over doesn't solve the problem either.
  • Stuff Rolls Down Hill. An we thought these things only happen at the office. I've seen dominant dogs when corrected by the handler, lash out at subordinate dogs.
  • Jealousy. When I had two dogs, they would both via for attention and the older male would always knock the younger dog down a notch if he tried to muscle in.
  • New Stranger in Town. Discussed above.
  • Fear Discussed above.
  • Dogs and Kids. Dogs and kids MUST always be supervisor and babies must always be watched.
  • Genetics. As we stated earlier, you ALWAYS want to see BOTH parents but we know many times it is not possible to see the male because no one would knowningly bred inferior, shy, timid dogs but you know, it HAPPENS.
  • Socialization. Under the section on Puppies we discussed the work of Scott and Fuller and socialization but there is one area I didn't mention. I once knew a gentlemen who each year imported a new dog from Europe. The new arrival would become part of THE PACK that got to live in the house with him. Unfortunately, his house could only accommodate so many dogs; which meant each year another dog had to be moved out into the kennels. One day, the owner offered to show me his other dogs in the kennel. I have never forgotten the experience. The kennels were large wooden enclosures, each connected to the other, which required you to walk through one to get to the other. The second a dog spied me walking in, they went into meltdown. They hugged the wall opposite my position, head down, tail tucked and moved in an apposing direction as I moved. I saw this was in kennel, after kennel.
  • Social Status. Some people never quite get the into the mix of where their pets fits into the social structure of their household. Puppies are born into a social setting. Their mother is top dog, what she says goes. When the puppy enters a new household, they expect the same thing living with people. There has to be a top dog, a second in command and then lower rankings for all other members. When a Alpha member is not readily apparent to the dog, they may feel free to take things into their own hands. Kind of like pushing the buttons until they are told otherwise. It's not uncommon to see a small miniature breed in an elderly couples home, who's kids have since left. The dog rules the roost, if someone tries to correct it, it snarls and bares it's teeth. This assertiveness can starts rather innoncently. A little growl when you try to push the dog off the bed. A growl and a little show of teeth when you take the dog's dish. The problem is one day someone is going to be serious and somebody is going to get bite or worse. This isn't a hissy feat and it wouldn't go away. Click here for more information and Click here
  • Maternal Aggression. Mothers are protective and they get worried when their kids whine. So its best that just the designated person, the one the dam trust picks up the littermates.
  • Rage Syndrome. I have never seen an example of this type of behavior but current research indicates that it often occurs in spaniels. Click here and if the information there relates to your dog, I strongly suggest you contact your veterinarian immediately.
  • Animals Aggression Discussed early.
  • Defense of Family. It is not often exhibited but it does exist. Parents or couples talk about the protective behavior they have observed in their pet when it comes to a particular family member, children or in situations involving shouting, screaming or violence.

OTHER BEHAVIORAL SITUATIONS

ESCAPE

This is entirely a matter of PREVENTION. If allowed to persist it will bolster their resolution to continue and can take extensive lengths of time to extinguish. As soon as it occurs you MUST take ACTION to secure that it can not happen again. I can not overemphasis the importance of nipping this is in the bud the FIRST TIME. If it is a kennel that the dog has escaped from, double-secure all wires, not just the one they managed to wiggle out of. Some kennels have weak guage chain link and the manufacter often uses minimal support at the bottom. If it continues to happen you may need to purchase a better kennel. If they are digging, you need to put BIG two foot diameter or more rocks in the holes. You may need to bury chicken wire (about a foot deep) at the base of the fence, or secure it flat on the ground. Daily survey the grounds for new attempts. You may need to purchase a kennel if they are escaping from a fenced yard. The reasons they escape are simply. FREEDOM.

  • Left too long in the kennel, consider more time in the house with you
  • Does not have an outlet for their energy
  • Not enough work, play or exercise
  • Escapes to be with other dogs
  • If he's a male escapes if there is a female in heat, close by

BARKING

While boredom is often the root, there are things that go bump in the night that alert them. Some barking I expect, inevitable when I have not exercised or work my dog enough he takes to longer sessions. This is annoying. The problem arises when the barking starts to disturbs the neighbors. Now you have a problem. You could start by bringing the dog inside for the night or crate them inside. They make bark collars but that would not be approapriate for a service dog.

OTHER TECHNIQUES

  • More social contact during the day and taking them with you more often
  • Use a 'shake can' to startle them when they are barking
  • Spray water on them when they are barking
  • Citronella spray collars (PREFERRED over the shock collar)
  • Some causes, kids teasing, running by, birds flying will require you to adjust the kennel or put up a fence to block his view.

CHEWING.

Chewing starts during teething between four and six months. After teething it relieves tension from boredom. You will need to redirect them to a toy, hard rubber is good. When they are teething, take a clean dish towel, get it wet, freeze it and then let them chew on it. Some stores sell nylabones, kong balls and chew toys. The thing to watch for is if the dog takes to chewing on itself. While it could be a bug bite or flea, if the dog continues in one area, hair loss begins, take the dog to the vet. For further see. http://www.metrokc.gov/lars/animal/Educate/cassidy/dog/dog11.htm

SEPARATION ANXIETY

Separation anxiety is an explanation in itself. You're gone, they don't like it. It can lead to barking, soiling and destructive behavior. Pet dogs left alone for long periods have been known to DESTROY home interiors. Some of the reasons are

  • Change in routine, where dog which was rarely left alone, now is, for extended periods
  • After a long vacation of constant companionship to being left alone at home
  • Change in family routine, where the person who normally met their needs, moved away, i.e. college

THE SIGNS ARE.

  • The destructive behavior only occurs in your absence, whether its for short or long periods.
  • They exhibit almost frantic greeting behavior when you return.
  • May follow you throughout the house

I have never seen this in service dogs, they are either in a kennel or a crate or with the handler, working or otherwise. The solutions will require a desensiziting approach. See these websites for further.

JUMPING

This is attention-seeking behavior. It starts when they are puppies, jumping on your legs and feet and of course you pick them up. As adults, jumping and bouncing are expressions of happiness and of course they want you to pet them. Unfortunately,what use to be cute can lead to someone being knocked down, a child or grandma.

You have to redirect this energy so I use blocking techniques and self-compliance. I've used the knee to the chest but it rarely works unless you use significant force, which i wouldn't recommend. What I have ended up with is a dog which still jumps but not on me.

The blocking technique started by accident. I had a food dish in my hand and it was simply a matter of extending it in front of me and he didn't jump. The second part is to stand still, you could use the 'sit' command but some dogs are too excited to obey the first time. Let them jump a few times and then say 'sit'. I then use my fists as an extended to block maneuver, like what is shown here.

OTHER TECHNIQUES

  • Take hold of their paws when they plant them on you. Hold them as long as you can, they dog will struggle and when he goes to 'mouth' your hands let them go.
  • Step on their back paws when they plant their front paws on you.
  • Ignore the dog until they settle down and then pay attention to them
  • Start when they are puppy, sit down on the floor so they don't have to jump on you but do not reward them with attention when they jump, wait until they quit.

 

WEBSITES TO VISIT

OWNER SUBJECT WEBSITE
The Pet Professor Behavior http://www.thepetprofessor.com/articles/dogs/behavior_and_training.aspx
K9 Events Behavior http://www.k9events.com/behaviourIndex.htm
Dr. P Library http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/library.htm
William Campell Behavior http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/index.html
VetMed UC Davis Barking http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/CCAB/barking.html
AllAboutPets Nervous http://www.allaboutpets.org.uk/assets/pdfs/dog/dog18.pdf
DogBiteLaw Canine Liability http://www.dogbitelaw.com/PAGES/insurance.htm
ExecutiveDogCtr K9 Postures http://www.executivedogcenter.com/montreal/postures.html
Pet Place Aggression http://www.pethelp.net/aggdog.html

 

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