Return to Alan Grossmeier's Home Page
(03-27-11) Arriving at his new home. (CLICK on an image to see full size.)
Lots of rust and a cracked cylinder head.
The Engine Rebuild
I picked up a new set of redesigned cylinder heads and installed them. After everything was back together, I found that the transmission had a bad vacuum modulator and the engine was sucking all the ATF out and turning it into massive clouds of white smoke. A new vacuum modulator fixed that but the Check Engine Light Trouble Codes keep showing a Lean condition.
Engine teardown
Had to cut the Y-pipe to get the heads off!
Still smoking - bad transmission vacuum modulator.
After replacing the heads, I had a persistent Check Engine Light Trouble Code indicating a Lean condition. I figured I cooked my O2 sensor with all the ATF I burned so changed that. Still got the code. I checked everything for vacuum leaks and found none. Now I started getting codes that the Idle Air Control solenoid was not working. Cleaned and tested the IAC assembly, still got Lean codes. Someone mentioned having a similar problem that was caused by a defective Manifold Air Pressure sensor. I changed that, still got Lean codes. I checked the Ignition module following the troubleshooting guide and got some weird readings so I swapped out the ignition module. Still getting Lean codes. After chasing this thing for three months, someone on the BroncoII.org site posted a tech tip from an old Ford mechanic. It seems that he came across several problems like this that all occurred after major engine or transmission repair but only on auto transmission equipped Ford Rangers or Bronco IIs. He found that the ground wire for the O2 sensor that is supposed to be attached to the cylinder head behind the auto transmission dip stick bracket was often forgotten. I couldn't recall reattaching a ground wire there so a quick check and there it was, dangling in the air. Five minutes later, it was attached and ALL IS GOOD!! If not for the great people at BroncoII.org, I would have likely never found that.
I dressed up the paint on the rebuilt motor.
They said you couldn't fit six-way power seats in a Bronco II. I made a trip to the local "U-Pull-It" salvage yard and grabbed a pair of pristine power seats and console from a first generation Explorer. A little hacking and bending and the seat tracks bolted right in.
The console now gives me real cupholders, and armrest and I transplanted the plow control joysticks to the console.
Here's the passenger seat all the forward and raised. Easy access to the back seat.
There was an lot of rust on this thing and most of the panels I just replaced. I bought after market front fenders, replacement doors from the U-Pull-It yard and repair panels for the rear quarter panels. Except for the hood, roof and tailgate, its a new body!
New Front Fenders were bought and installed
I ordered some replacement body panels
And started cutting out the rust
Left side was easy
The right side was a bit more extensive
Here's the left side ready for paint
And the right side now ready for paint
I used Eastwood's 4 CFM HVLP gun and their paints to repaint the truck. Did it in the garage so it is definitely not show condition but hey, it's a plow truck.
I had a shudder when pulling away from a stop that I thought might be a slipping band in the transmission. This truck had been used for snow plowing for a number of years and a worn transmission band would not be surprising. Others that had similar shudder problems had identified the cause as badly worn CV joints on the driveshaft. These driveshafts are a nightmare. They are not easily rebuildable and expensive to replace. BroncoII.org again came to my rescue as a member posted an inexpensive way to replace the rear driveshaft. I needed a front driveshaft and two rear drive shaft yokes from a first generation Ford Explorer. I went to the local U-Pull-It salvage yard and there between two 1991 Explorers was a front driveshaft laying on the ground. I checked under both vehicles and the transfer cases had been pulled leaving the rear driveshafts hanging. I pulled the yokes off both of them and was out of the yard in 17 minutes. Total cost, $13.74. I cut the cardon joint off the driveshaft, installed new u-joints, swapped in the front yoke from the rear driveshaft and swapped in the rear flange from the other rear yoke and it became a heavy duty rear driveshaft for a Bronco II - all for under $30 - and the shudder is gone.
Old driveshaft on top, replacement on bottom.
Since most of its time will be spent pushing a snow plow, I added a Transmission Temperature Gauge.
Let it Snow!!
Before: 
After: 