Weathering models

     Weathering models is making them look used, battle damaged etc. to give them a more "real life look" since most of the things we see are weathered in some way or another. 

Mud:   Mud can be found on the bottom of cars, but may look more natural on a tank or jeep.  Mud can be simulated by using putty (One source says Squadron White putty is best).  You take a bowl, mixing cup or something else, put putty in and mix in browns, tans, blacks, etc. until you have achieved the color of mud you want.  Putty is pretty goopy, so I imagine that this stuff may be difficult to apply, so you may want to experiment before trying it on your model.  Use a brush, (most likely a mid size, crud brush) to apply. 

Rust: There are several ways to make rust.  One way is to use weathering powders.  RUSTALL is a weathering powder you can simulate rust with.  To use it you take the water soluble solution and mix it with the weathering powder, then brush on and let it dry.   RUSTALL also has powders for other weathering (Blackwash, Dead Flat, and Dust Powder)

Exhaust:   There are exhaust buffing metalizers out there to paint on exhaust, but I believe their are better ways.  I've never tried it, but I believe that taking a Q-tip and rubbing the cotton end of it around in the exhaust pipe of  your car, then rub it off on your model to simulate exhaust; kind of like charcoal.  If you tried this though, you may want to find a way to seal the stuff on, because I know it would rub off, or smear around the paint really easily.

Battle Damage:  One of the most battle beaten pieces of equipment you can probably think of are tanks, so everything below is dealing mostly with what would happen to a tank, but it certainly isn't contained to that area. 

Bullet holes:  Bullet holes, or bullet dings can be simulated by using a Hot Tool (woodburning type tool) and a needle tip, and preferable a heat regulator.  Press the needle into the plastic at a 45 degree angle (You can try different pressures to find whats right.) until you get the desired effect.  You may want to practice this on some extra plastic before trying it on your model.  When doing this clean off your needle with something to control plastic buildup on the needle. 

Cracked armor:  To make cracked armor, find the place where you want to make the crack and score it with a modeling knife.   Then grab the plastic on either side of the crack and bend it back and fourth until it cracks to your desired size. 

Gouges: To simulate gouges on thick armor, it's probable you will need to thicken the area you are going to gouge.  Do this by adding thick sheet plastic behind the front of the armor plate.  Use a Hot Tool to do the gouging.  Insert the needle, move it around, and remove it.  More realism can be added by smoothing out the inside of the gouge, and taking off excess lip.

More weathering articles may be added in the future.